WatchPro
Hard facts about Rolex financials
Rolex's UK subsidiary, The Rolex Watch Company Limited, posted 5% revenue growth to £736.7m in its latest Companies House filing, but operating profit fell 10.4% to £87.1m on an unfavorable pound-franc exchange rate the company declined to pass on under its global price-parity policy. The real tell for the industry: a quiet restructuring now has UK retailers buying watches directly from Switzerland rather than through the subsidiary, cutting its stock holding by £48.5m, while corporation tax dropped from £21.9m to £16.7m, a timely data point given VAT-free shopping gaps versus the EU.
Business & Industry
WatchPro
How Watch Gang introduced its wheel-based watch-buying experience
Watch Gang has launched the Wheel, a mystery-box variant that lets buyers select target watches across four tiers plus a Grail piece, pay a baseline tied to their level 1 choice, and spin for that watch guaranteed or an upgrade. It sits alongside the subscription service and recurring weekly giveaways (a Tag every Tuesday, Seiko Saturdays, Rolex Fridays), plus "level-up drops" capped at roughly 300 to 500 pieces with one buyer getting a significant upgrade. The play is commercial as much as collector-facing: engineering a value floor removes the downside that kills repeat mystery-box buyers, and staged scarcity turns each drop into its own event for a company betting the category is drifting toward gamified, drop-native commerce.
WatchPro
Houlden marks 50 years of independent luxury with anniversary celebration
Houlden, the UK buying group for independent jewellers founded in 1975 by Stuart Laing and later Peter Lunn, marked its 50th anniversary with a three-day "Fifty Years Forward" event at Fairmont Windsor Park, pairing business sessions with a two-day supplier exhibition and the 2026 Houlden Awards. For suppliers and brands chasing shelf space in Britain's independent channel, the gathering is a reminder that the collective-buying model still underpins how a large slice of UK retail discovers collections and strikes deals.
WatchPro
Omega celebrates Speedmaster heritage with immersive Dubai exhibition
Omega staged an immersive Speedmaster heritage exhibition at its boutique in The Dubai Mall on 9 September, walking guests through the chronograph's evolution from racing instrument to Moonwatch icon. The evening closed with a first look at seven new Speedmaster 38mm references that borrow Moonwatch codes: rounded subdials, reduced dial text, thicker Dot-Over-Ninety bezels and a five-link bracelet, running Calibre 3330 (six date versions) and Calibre 3332 (a no-date black dial). The play here is clear, Omega is funneling the Moonwatch's commercial pull into a smaller case to broaden the Speedmaster's reach.
Community & Culture
Revolution Watch
The MR-G at 30: From the First Metal G-Shock to the Blue Rose Project
Casio is marking 30 years of the metal-cased MR-G line with a three-chapter 2026 program: the ice-inspired MRG-BF1000EB-1A Frogman (Cobarion bezel, Grade 5 titanium, 200m water resistance, limited to 800), two MRG-B2100HR Haruka models pairing Hiroto Rakusho's metal-leaf craft with ultrashort-pulse-laser structural color (platinum-leaf at 800 pieces, gold-leaf at 150), and the sapphire-cased Blue Rose Project that realizes founder Kikuo Ibe's long-held ambition. The arc traces the MR-G from the 1996 MRG-100, G-Shock's first full-metal watch, to its current role as Casio's top showcase for materials and Japanese craftsmanship, assembled on Yamagata's Premium Production Line.
SJX Watches
In-Depth: 200 Odd Years of Hacking Tourbillons
SJX traces the 200-year history of hacking tourbillons, from Breguet's observation-seconds trick and Houriet's third-wheel stop to Nicole Nielsen's direct balance hack and, eventually, A. Lange & Söhne's Helmut Geyer m-shaped spring. Patented in 2001, Geyer's mechanism debuted in the 2008 Cabaret Tourbillon, long mislabeled the first hacking tourbillon when it was really the first made in meaningful numbers. A reminder that today's "innovations" in stop-seconds complications were largely solved problems for pocket-watch constructors centuries ago.
Worn & Wound
Who’s Coming to Windup NYC 2026? The Full, Updated Brand Lineup
Worn & Wound's Windup Watch Fair returns to Manhattan's Center415 October 16-18, 2026, adding another hall to accommodate more than 160 brands and lead sponsors Bremont, Brew, Bulova, Christopher Ward, and Oris. eBay Live signs on as official streaming partner, broadcasting live auctions and brand coverage to a global audience. The expansion and the eBay tie-in signal that Windup has become the center of gravity for the microbrand and accessible-watch world, and a venue brands now treat as a primary launch platform rather than a sideshow.
Revolution Watch
HAUTLENCE: Changing Time
Hautlence, the Neuchâtel-born independent now housed in MELB Holding alongside H. Moser & Cie., is leaning hard into its unconventional-timekeeping DNA with two new releases: the Sphere Series 4, whose sand-colored titanium hour sphere rotates across three axes driven by the in-house hand-wound A82 caliber (37mm x 45mm Grade 5 titanium case, 72-hour reserve, 100m, limited to 28 pieces), and the Kubera Series 1, a Cubism-inspired steel integrated-bracelet piece with a jumping-hour window and continuous peripheral-minute cursor powered by a Lajoux-Perret B60 base with an Agenhor-developed module (70-hour reserve). For a brand that has spent two decades selling the spectacle of reading time over the time itself, the dual launch signals MELB is betting the Meylan network and sister-company engineering can finally turn Hautlence's cult experiments into a sustainable commercial line.
Watchonista
Behind the Bench: A Look at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton’s Enameling
Watchonista goes inside La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, the Meyrin manufacture founded by Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini in 2007, acquired by Louis Vuitton in 2011 and since vertically integrated under La Fabrique des Arts, Boitiers, and Mouvements. The piece details the enameling behind pieces like the Tambour Taiko Arty Automata and the Escale en Alaska pocket watch (32 enamel shades, 30-plus firings, 300-plus hours of work). For the industry, it is a reminder that LVMH has quietly built an in-house métiers d'art capability rivaling the specialist ateliers, buying its way into the high-watchmaking conversation that brands like Patek and Lange earned over generations.
Fratello
The Future Is Here: Why The North Flag/Northflag Is So Important For Tudor Once Again
Tudor has revived its unloved 2015 North Flag as the Northflag (ref. M9140G1A0U-0001, €5,100), now a GMT with a 40mm steel case, integrated H-link bracelet and the in-house MT5652-U caliber (4 Hz, 65-hour reserve, COSC and METAS certified). The commercial read: Tudor is betting that the retro wave that made the Black Bay its cash cow is cresting, and testing whether a wholly Tudor, Rolex-free identity can now sell on its own terms.
Fratello
Why I Bought A Replica — An Omega Speedmaster Replica 3594.50, That Is
Fratello reruns Lex Stolk's personal case for the neo-vintage Omega Speedmaster "Replica" 3594.50, a 1997-2003 tribute to the 1957 CK2915 built around a 42mm asymmetric case, steel bezel, Broad Arrow hands, dark gray dial, applied logo, Hesalite crystal, and the hand-wound caliber 1861. The angle: an out-of-production neo-vintage Speedy that enthusiasts still chase, bought over the current METAS Moonwatch, a reminder that discontinued references keep accruing collector heat even when newer models are objectively better specced.
Hodinkee
Toronto Timepiece Show 2026
Hodinkee filed a photo report from the third edition of the Toronto Timepiece Show, the ~90-brand fair run by Jason Hutton at the Meridian Arts Center, with Baltic, Christopher Ward, Marathon, Grönefeld, Straum and 22Studio among those on the floor. Notably, Hutton's Timepiece Shows have expanded across Canada this year, adding Vancouver and a first-ever Montréal stop. The spread of these enthusiast-driven, open-to-the-public fairs signals how much the grassroots retail-and-community circuit now matters as a discovery channel for independents and micro-brands.
Reviews
Fratello
Test-Driving The Seiko Speedtimer HBJ008 European Limited Edition HBJ008
Fratello's Jorg Weppelink test-drives Seiko's new solar-powered Speedtimer HBJ008 European Limited Edition: a 39mm, 13mm-thick racing chronograph in deep blue with orange accents, limited to 4,000 pieces at €880, available across Europe from November 1, 2026. He praises the rich blue dial and the fully brushed bracelet (an upgrade over the polished center links of last year's purple LE), while faulting the absence of quick-release and clasp micro-adjustment and wishing it were slightly slimmer. For the trade reader: he's confident all 4,000 pieces sell, and notes Seiko lags cheaper rivals on practical clasp features buyers now expect.
aBlogtoWatch
Timex Atelier Chronograph Quartz M1q Bridges The Gap To The Brand’s Luxury Watches
aBlogtoWatch goes hands-on with the Timex Atelier Chronograph Quartz M1q, a 40mm Swiss-made (Ronda 5021.D) steel chronograph priced at $700 on rubber ($800 on bracelet), the most affordable Atelier yet by a wide margin and one-third the cost of its automatic sibling. They praise the more wearable proportions, 100m water resistance, and above-expectation NBR strap, but fault the dial's guilloché-necessitated register placement, finding the subdials undersized and less cohesive than the no-date automatic. The trade takeaway: a sub-$1,000 quartz entry deliberately bridges Timex's mass-market catalog and its luxury-oriented Atelier line.
New Releases
Time + Tide
TAG Heuer celebrates 50 years of the Five Borough New York City Marathon with new Connected Calibre E5 Running Edition
TAG Heuer marks the 50th anniversary of the five-borough New York City Marathon with the NYRR Marathon 2026 Connected Calibre E5 Running Edition: a 45mm sandblasted grade 2 titanium smartwatch with 50m water resistance, a non-linear distance-scale bezel marking race distances in miles and kilometres, and two NYRR dial displays (also downloadable for existing E5 owners). Priced at CHF 2,100 and available now from TAG Heuer boutiques, it extends the brand's role as official timekeeper of the race into a second year, a running-market play on the heels of last year's New Balance tie-up.
Hodinkee
G-SHOCK Reveals The MRG-D5000 “Blue Rose Project” In Sapphire
G-SHOCK has released the MRG-D5000 "Blue Rose Project," its first production watch with a sapphire crystal case, in a limited run of 20 pieces priced at $80,000 (JPY 1.1 million), making it the most expensive G-SHOCK ever at retail. The transparent blue sapphire square case uses a screwless interlocking "Multi-Guard Structure" inspired by Japanese wood joinery, pairs with a rubber strap, and retains G-SHOCK staples: 20-bar water resistance, shock resistance, solar charging, and Multi Band 6 radio control, with 24K gold front lettering; it measures 16.45mm thick and 51mm lug-to-lug. The piece carries on the spirit of founder Kikuo Ibe's unrealized Dream Project sapphire concept and is inscribed "Dream Project" on the caseback as a homage.
Monochrome Watches
Baume & Mercier Gives the Clifton an Ice-Blue Update (Incl. Video)
Baume & Mercier is extending its 2025-redesigned Clifton line with two ice-blue guilloché limited editions: a 39mm steel automatic (Baumatic BM13-1975 A, 120h reserve, Ref. M0A10870, EUR 3,700) and a 40mm steel perpetual calendar (Baumatic BM13-1975 AC2 with Dubois-Dépraz module, Ref. M0A10872, EUR 19,500). The perpetual calendar moves the complication into steel at 40mm, notably more compact than the 42mm precious-metal predecessors, with day, date, month, leap-year and a blue moon-phase display.
Monochrome Watches
Earthen Adds Three New Ceramic Colours to its Accessible Summit MK2 Collection
Earthen has added three new ceramic colorways to its Summit MK2 field watch line: Dune Devil (beige case, brown dial), Glade (dark green case with full green lume dial), and Après-Bleu (navy case, cream hands). All share the 38mm by 10mm ceramic case and bezel, domed AR sapphire, and a Miyota 9039 automatic (28,800vph, ~42h reserve), each shipping with two color-matched FKM straps at USD 899 before VAT. Not limited editions, though production is capped by current capacity; available via earthen-co.com.
Also at: Time + Tide · Fratello
Fratello
The Nezumi Voiture VM2: A Racing Chronograph That’s Here To Stay
Nezumi has added the Voiture VM2 to its permanent lineup, a '70s-inspired racing chronograph that swaps the brand's usual mecha-quartz for the Chinese Peacock SL4801 automatic column-wheel caliber (28,800 vph, 41 jewels, 55-hour reserve) in a 40x47mm, 100m steel case. Two refs launch (VM2.202 in black/gray/white and VM2.1102 in black/gray/orange/cream) at €850 excl. VAT, or €902 on the bracelet, available now via Nezumi's site. The move matters because it pushes an affordable microbrand into genuine mechanical chronograph territory at a price point where few credible options exist.
WatchTime
WatchTime New York 2026 Preview: 8 More Watches and Mechanical Creations
WatchTime New York 2026 (Gotham Hall, October 16-18) adds eight more pieces to its preview roster, from the Chronoswiss Neo Digiteur Pastel Code (48mm x 30mm steel, 99 pieces per color) and H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton Ceramic Alpine (40mm, 100 pieces) to the Laurent Ferrier Sport Traveller Slate Grey (42mm titanium, dual-time) and Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance Manufacture Edition Blue (39mm, 50 pieces). The showstoppers skew theatrical: Jacob & Co.'s Godfather II plays two Nino Rota themes via an integrated music box (74 pieces, $440,000), while Keris takes the movement off the wrist entirely with a 220mm, 1.9kg freestanding Meca Tradition (300 pieces), rounded out by the Hautlence Kubera Series 1 and Kollokium Projekt 01 Variant "H".
Monochrome Watches
Moritz Grossmann Injects a Contemporary Air into the Benu Power Reserve
Moritz Grossmann marks the bicentennial of its namesake founder with two darker, sector-dial takes on the Benu Power Reserve, in brushed steel and dark grey DLC-coated steel, each 41mm and housing the hand-finished manual calibre 100.2 with its signature linear power reserve. Both are limited to 18 pieces on black kudu straps at EUR 40,800 (excl. taxes), available via grossmann.uhren.com. At the top of German independent watchmaking, this is less a new launch than a careful reframing: contemporary cases and textured dials to keep a 2010-era icon selling to the collectors who already know the name.
Podcasts
Fratello
Fratello Talks: Can Brand Ambassadors Help Create A New Generation Of Watch Enthusiasts?
On this Fratello Talks, Nacho, RJ, and Daan debate whether brand ambassadors (actors, athletes, musicians) can convert celebrity visibility into genuine horological interest among a new generation, weighing their role against social media and influencers in how younger audiences now discover watches: useful listening for anyone writing marketing checks for famous wrists.
Hodinkee
The Business of Watches Podcast: Formex CEO And Head Of Product Development At Dexel Raphael Granito
Hodinkee's Business of Watches podcast hosts Formex CEO Raphael Granito, part of the family behind Swiss component maker Dexel, on how he led the 2016 revival of Formex, built the brand largely outside traditional retail with the U.S. as its biggest market, and pushed upmarket with the Horage-movement Aria priced below CHF 6,000 against a roughly CHF 1,800 brand average: useful listening for anyone tracking how a supplier-backed independent scales and trades up.