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Thursday, August 27, 2026
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Business & Industry

Business News: Middle East Conflict Forces The Escapement To Cancel Abu Dhabi Event And Move To Las Vegas

Hodinkee

Middle East Conflict Forces The Escapement To Cancel Abu Dhabi Event And Move To Las Vegas

The Escapement, the independent-heavy collector show co-founded by Anish Bhatt (WatchAnish) and Faheem Khan, has scrapped its inaugural November outing at Abu Dhabi's Etihad Arena and rebooked for the T-Mobile Arena in Las Vegas, February 5-7, 2027, blaming corporate travel restrictions tied to the U.S.-Iran conflict. The pivot means scaled-back ambitions (500-750 VIP and 4,000-5,000 general tickets, down from up to 1,000 and 10,000, at prices 10-15% higher) and no confirmed appearances yet from marquee draws Rexhep Rexhepi and LVMH's Jean Arnault, though most brands (Biver, Greubel Forsey, Czapek, Ming and others) are expected to follow. Notable that a show built to fill Dubai Watch Week's off-year is now betting on Vegas geopolitical certainty over Gulf reach, a telling read on where the independent scene thinks its audience actually is.

Vivienne Westwood and Braun watches help Zeon sales hit all-time high

WatchPro

Vivienne Westwood and Braun watches help Zeon sales hit all-time high

Zeon, the London-based maker and distributor for Vivienne Westwood, Braun and its in-house Ingersoll brand, posted record turnover up 10% to £14 million for the year ended March 31 2026, though operating profit stayed flat at £1.7 million. The Herald Group subsidiary is leaning harder into direct-to-consumer alongside key wholesale accounts like Beaverbrooks and Signet, part of the fashion-and-lifestyle watch cohort chasing sub-£400 automatics and hot design trends to keep volume brands relevant.

Dispatch: Diving With Force Blue And Luminox For Reef Restoration In Miami

Hodinkee

Dispatch: Diving With Force Blue And Luminox For Reef Restoration In Miami

Luminox is releasing a new Pacific Diver in a Force Blue edition, tied to its partnership with the veteran-staffed ocean conservation nonprofit whose coral-restoration work off Key Biscayne it has backed since 2022. Built on the existing Pacific Diver, the watch runs a 44mm steel case with 200m water resistance, a Ronda 515 quartz movement, a Carbonox carbon bezel, and tritium tube lume in a blue, yellow, and black colorway. For a brand whose whole identity is military and service credibility, the Force Blue tie-in is the kind of mission-driven story that keeps Luminox differentiated from the sea of dive-watch me-toos.

Auction & Market

Collector club Christopher Ward Bel Canto sets new price record

WatchPro

Collector club Christopher Ward Bel Canto sets new price record

A single retained piece of Christopher Ward's MIA Watch Club C1 Bel Canto (number 17 of a 35-piece South Beach edition originally priced at $4,725) sold for a record $12,500 at a Miami charity auction benefiting The WOW Center and The Alliance for Florida's National Parks. The only Bel Canto to fetch more was the seconde/seconde x Andrew Morgan one-off at $18,000 in December 2025. The result underscores how Christopher Ward's collector-club strategy is fueling secondary-market heat as it pushes deeper into the US with showrooms and face-to-face events.

Community & Culture

Lancaster Watch Weekend Brings Three Days of Horology to Pennsylvania This September

WatchTime

Lancaster Watch Weekend Brings Three Days of Horology to Pennsylvania This September

The second annual Lancaster Watch Weekend runs September 25-27, 2026 across Lancaster County, PA, co-hosted by the NAWCC, the Hamilton Watch Boutique, RGM Watch Company, and Brent Miller Jewelers, with an RGM open house, RedBar and HSNY programming, and a Sunday watch fair at the NAWCC Museum. Announced exhibitors include Czapek, Hamilton, RGM, J.N. Shapiro, Towson, Vortic, Weiss, Love Hunter, and 1776 Atelier (a Fitwell partner), plus Jean Rousseau straps. For an industry increasingly reliant on collector-facing events to build brand loyalty, a scrappy regional show anchored to America's actual watchmaking heritage is a smart play that the big Geneva-centric calendar can't replicate.

Reviews

Longines Master Collection 2026: Hands On Review

Revolution Watch

Longines Master Collection 2026: Hands On Review

Revolution Watch's Constant Kwong goes hands-on with the redesigned 2026 Longines Master Collection, praising how Longines has sharpened one of its core classical families with refined case proportions, new dial treatments and column-wheel movements. Notably, the update introduces the collection's first single-pusher (monopusher) chronograph alongside a newly proportioned Chrono Moonphase and cleaner three-hand references. For the trade, it's a reminder that Longines is doubling down on accessible complication-and-heritage positioning in its most important entry-luxury family.

Hands-On: Perrelet Turbine Casino Roulette Watch Is On-Trend For Today’s Gambling-Fascinated World

aBlogtoWatch

Perrelet Turbine Casino Roulette Watch Is On-Trend For Today’s Gambling-Fascinated World

aBlogtoWatch went hands-on with the Perrelet Turbine Casino Roulette (ref. A4066/S3), a 100-piece limited edition at $5,995 that swaps the Turbine's spinning blades for a roulette-wheel dial governed by a single tungsten weight. They came away pleasantly surprised, calling it a tangibly distinct offering and a fair-value alternative to Jacob & Co.'s six-figure casino pieces, though they fault the butterfly clasp for lacking micro-adjustment. The trade takeaway: at roughly a hundred bucks over standard Turbine models, Perrelet is testing whether novelty theming can command a premium without one.

New Releases

Getting To The Core: The Updated Formex Essence Automatic COSC 39mm

Fratello

Getting To The Core: The Updated Formex Essence Automatic COSC 39mm

Formex has quietly upgraded its best-selling Essence Automatic COSC 39mm (ref. 0339.1.6613), leaving the 39mm spring-loaded case untouched (45.5mm lug-to-lug, 10.5mm thick, 100m WR) while swapping in the new Sellita SW200-2 Power+ COSC with 65 hours of reserve, a screw-down crown, and a butterfly clasp with 6mm of tool-free on-wrist micro-adjustment. It comes in Alpine White, blue, and Radiant Bronze dials, priced at €1,680/US$1,850/CHF 1,470 on strap and €1,790/US$1,980/CHF 1,570 on bracelet. Refining a proven bestseller rather than restyling it is the smart play for a brand still fighting for shelf space in the crowded sub-$2K microbrand segment.

Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Tribute To Great Civilisations

Revolution Watch

Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Tribute To Great Civilisations

Vacheron Constantin extends its Métiers d'Art Tribute to Great Civilisations with a 2026 four-piece chapter made in collaboration with the Louvre: Buste d'Akhénaton, Lamassu de Sargon II, Athéna de Velletri and Tibre de l'Iseum Campense, each reinterpreting an ancient Louvre work through stone carving, marquetry, micro-mosaic, engraving and enamelling. All four run on Caliber 2460 G4/2, with hours, minutes, day and date shown via four apertures that leave the dial centre open for the crafts. The Louvre tie-up is the commercial hook here: a museum partnership that gives high-end métiers d'art clients a provenance story money alone can't buy.

Introducing: Straum Expedition

Hodinkee

Straum Expedition

Straum has launched the Expedition, the first watch in a new "Built For" collection that pivots the micro-brand from nature-inspired aesthetics toward utilitarian, legibility-first tooling. The Grade 5 titanium case measures 38.2mm across, 45.7mm lug-to-lug, and 11mm thick, with a stepped bezel, enlarged glove-friendly crown, La Joux-Perret LJP G100 movement (68-hour reserve), and 10 ATM water resistance; it comes in white, titanium, and a 200-piece Midnight Blue launch edition. Pre-orders open now at $2,750 on FKM rubber or $3,100 on the titanium bracelet, with deliveries starting March 2027.

Introducing – Atelier Wen x Massena LAB Inflection Shuo, A Tantalum Integrated Watch with Two Gold Dial Variants

Monochrome Watches

Atelier Wen x Massena LAB Inflection Shuo, A Tantalum Integrated Watch with Two Gold Dial Variants

Atelier Wen and Massena LAB are teaming up for Geneva Watch Days 2026 on the Inflection Shuo, a 40mm tantalum integrated-bracelet watch (45mm lug-to-lug, 10.2mm thick, 100m WR) with solid-gold hand-tremblage dials by Coralie Mercier and a California-style layout mixing custom Arabic and hand-calligraphed Chinese numerals. Powered by a heavily reworked Girard-Perregaux GP03300 (28,800vph, ~48h reserve), it comes in 50 pieces total: 10 white gold reserved for existing clients, 40 rose gold public, at CHF 33,800 excluding taxes. Orders open August 26, 2026, with deliveries in early 2027, a clear signal of Atelier Wen's push upmarket into serious haute-finishing territory.

Also at: Fratello · Revolution Watch

Introducing – The new Bell & Ross BR-X5 Meteorite

Monochrome Watches

The new Bell & Ross BR-X5 Meteorite

Bell & Ross brings its BR-X5 to Geneva Watch Days in a stainless steel case with a grey Muonionalusta meteorite dial, machined from solid rock and PVD-coated. The 41mm, 12.8mm-thick watch runs the COSC-certified Kenissi-made BR-CAL.323 (4Hz, 70-hour reserve) with triple-date aperture and power reserve, offered on steel bracelet or black rubber. Limited to 250 pieces, price to be confirmed.

Also at: Revolution Watch

The Ming 57.05 Comet Springs Forward

SJX Watches

The Ming 57.05 Comet Springs Forward

Ahead of Geneva Watch Days, Ming has unveiled the 57.05 Comet, a DST-compatible Cottier-style worldtimer whose two-piece bezel rotates 15 degrees counterclockwise to correct for Daylight Saving Time, paired with a rotating "Comet Tail" interference-pattern dial. The 40mm steel watch runs a customized Sellita SW330 and comes in a limited edition of 200, priced at CHF6,950 on a Jean Rousseau strap or CHF7,950 on the 3D-printed titanium Polymesh bracelet, available from August 27, 2026. A genuinely novel fix for the worldtimer's oldest flaw, from a brand that keeps pricing complications like this well under what the Geneva establishment charges.

Also at: Worn & Wound · Monochrome Watches · Hodinkee

Choosin’ Texas With The New Jack Mason Canton Day-Date

Fratello

Choosin’ Texas With The New Jack Mason Canton Day-Date

Jack Mason extends its best-selling Canton line with the Canton Day-Date, a trio in 41mm steel (48mm lug-to-lug, 12mm thick, 150m WR) powered by the top-grade Sellita SW240-1 with day at 12 and magnified date at 6, plus new milled guilloché dials in Slate, Lagoon, and Chocolate. It lands this Friday on Jack Mason's site at US$1,849, versus $1,399 for the time-and-date Canton. Adding a Day-Date to a proven seller is the low-risk way for a small Texan brand to widen its all-arounder catalog without new tooling.

Introducing – The Maison Alcée x MB&F Nostromo, an Alien-Like Creation to Build Yourself

Monochrome Watches

The Maison Alcée x MB&F Nostromo, an Alien-Like Creation to Build Yourself

MB&F and Maison Alcée have teamed up on Nostromo, a build-it-yourself mechanical desk clock marking the 15th anniversary of MB&F's M.A.D. Gallery, designed by Maximilian Maertens as an alien-inspired object resting on three spidery legs. It offers hours, minutes, seconds and an on-demand hour chime, a 14-day power reserve, and roughly 10 hours of assembly time guided by a 250-page manual with QR-code video content. Limited to 50 pieces at CHF 12,000 (excl. VAT), sold exclusively through M.A.D.Galleries in Geneva and Dubai and MB&F LABs worldwide.

Also at: Hodinkee

New Release: Urwerk UR-1001 ‘Amadeus’ Is A Hand-Engraved Pocket Watch With A Millennium Tracker

aBlogtoWatch

Urwerk UR-1001 ‘Amadeus’ Is A Hand-Engraved Pocket Watch With A Millennium Tracker

Urwerk has unveiled the UR-1001 "Amadeus," a piece-unique pocket watch in its "Special Projects" line, wrapping the brand's satellite-display, all-scales-of-time UR-1001 concept in a titanium case hand-engraved over roughly 500 hours (nearly three months) by master engraver Florian Güllert. Measuring 62mm wide, 23mm thick and 106mm tall, it runs the automatic Caliber UR-10.01 (28,800vph, 39-hour reserve) with an annual calendar and indicators tracking everything from seconds to millennia across both sides of the case. As a one-off tied to the same engraving hand behind Urwerk's 2017 UR-210 "Amadeus," this is a haute-horlogerie flex aimed squarely at the collector willing to pay for singular provenance rather than production volume.

Also at: Monochrome Watches

Luminox Navy SEAL 3500 "Semper Fortis" Honors the Spirit of "Ever Strong"

WatchTime

Luminox Navy SEAL 3500 "Semper Fortis" Honors the Spirit of "Ever Strong"

Luminox adds a "Semper Fortis" edition to its Navy SEAL 3500 line, limited to 775 pieces (a nod to the Navy's 1775 founding) with a stealth black dial whose lume-applied "SEMPER-FORTIS" text glows after dark above red "EVER STRONG" lettering. It runs the 45mm turtle-shaped platform in full Carbonox (case, bezel and bracelet), water resistant to 200m, on a Ronda 515 quartz with LLT tritium tubes, priced at $695.

Introducing – By Popular Choice… The new Seiko Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver “Fan-Selected” HBC011

Monochrome Watches

By Popular Choice… The new Seiko Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver “Fan-Selected” HBC011

Seiko is turning its 2025 fan-vote campaign into product: the Prospex 1965 Heritage Diver "Fan-Selected" HBC011, the winning "Daytime Blue" turquoise dial/bezel edition, arrives as a 4,500-piece limited run at EUR 1,550, available worldwide from October 2026. It's a 40mm, 13mm-thick hard-coated steel diver with 300m water resistance, sapphire crystal, wave-patterned dial and the in-house 6R55 automatic. The crowdsourcing gambit is the interesting part here: Seiko outsourced the colorway decision to its enthusiast base and unsurprisingly got the most conservative option, a low-risk way to manufacture pre-launch demand.

Podcasts

Fratello Talks: How Microbrands Have Changed The Game

Fratello

Fratello Talks: How Microbrands Have Changed The Game

A Fratello Talks episode where Nacho, Daan, and Jorg discuss how microbrands have evolved from cheap enthusiast alternatives into ambitious, higher-quality (and higher-priced) players, with wrist checks featuring the Anoma A1 Core "Stone," Traska Venturer GMT, and Echo/Neutra Rivanera Piccolo.

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